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Christmas Fair 2008 November Missive #4 - Costumes
(sent November 7th, 2008)
The Great Dickens Costume Missive for 2008 from Liz Martin
Please read the wealth of information below and on the website
before asking questions of the costume department, but if (and probably
when) you do have questions, they will be at workshops this weekend or
you can contact them at
costumes@redbarnproductions.com or dickenscostumes@gmail.com
In This Missive:
Welcome Back to London!
Photo Database
Costume Overview
Practical Advice:
Classes
Tentative Costume Approval Schedule
Makeup
So You Still Need a Costume...
Online Suppliers
Fabric and Pattern Selection
Patterns
Summary
Welcome Back to London!
I am so looking forward to working with all of you this year. I
love getting the first look at all the wonderful costumes you have
created over the past year - and seeing the fabulous ones from years
past.
Alexandria Volk will be returning as the costumer for Pirates of
Penzance and as the Costume Shop manager. The lovely Harper will
be our intern, returning after a 2 year absence.
We will have several other helpers and interns who look forward to
meeting all of you throughout the run of Dickens fair.
Dickens Fair is a unique theatrical animal. We are a collection of
volunteer performers who are attempting to recreate and populate the
London that Mr. Charles Dickens created in his works. If this is your
first year, you will find it to truly be an ensemble cast effort. And
yes, what you wear really matters. The costumes are the biggest part of
the scenery - your clothing is what will set the time period and the
feel of the show to our customers.
Please make sure that you are always fully dressed in costume when ever
you are in the public view.
All participants in the fair (cast members, employees, volunteers, door
mice, helper cats) must receive costume approval prior to opening (or
before receiving their pass): registration forms must be stamped with
costume approval in order to receive a gate pass.
Photo Database
We are going to attempt to create a photo database of the
participants costumes. Please be patient with us as we see if this is
in fact "a good thing" and not a "hmmm, seemed like such a good
idea at the time!"
My goal for this year is to make approvals as stress-free as possible
and to work with all of you to create the most beautifully populated
London our customers have ever seen.
So how does this translate to you, the performer?
1)
There is a dress
code and a time line.
2)
We are going for
the rule - NOT the exception
3)
We want you to be
comfortable in your costume
4)
Yes, you want to
make the costume department's life as stress-free as possible!
5)
Have fun!
Costume Overview
We ask that our participants wear clothing that would lead the
casual observer to believe that they have just stepped back in time to
a Christmas Eve in London somewhere between the years 1842-1863.
How we achieve this is by keeping to a certain silhouette for both the
women and the men. Please remember that wearing your coats, shawls,
wraps, bonnets, hats, scarves and gloves while "on the streets of
London" goes a very long way in setting the mood and ambiance for our
visitors.
NOTE: These are very generalized. This is intended to give you a quick
OVERVIEW of what we are looking for. There are of course class
differences and character traits that will cause there to be differing
clothing items. For a more in-depth version of this - please feel free
to come to the costume classes at workshops or visit the website at
www.dickensfair.com/costumeguide.htm
Women: Colors - jewel tones, NO BLACK (unless Mr. Dickens wrote you
in black). Plaids are wonderful, again in the darker jewel tones,
& patterned cotton fabrics are also acceptable, (please let me see
the swatch BEFORE you start sewing!) Hoops or crinolines, (think
bell shape for your skirt) NO BUSTLES, long sleeves, a relatively high
neckline, some sort of outwear, gloves and a bonnet or hat will
complete your basic Dickens outfit quite nicely. Please - no top hats
on women - of ANY size.
Men:
Pants - high-waisted is preferred, wool, either plaid or plain,
suspenders - not a belt,
Vest/waistcoat: collared or not, no points in the front (straight
across), single or double breasted, does not generally match either the
pants or the jacket - plaids, brocades & stripes are wonderful.
Jacket - does not always have to match the pants, in the case of a sack
suit all 3 pieces would match, Shirt - for laborers can be striped or
colored, clerks and upper class (A Gentleman) would wear white, either
collarless or with a high standing collar, (for middle class and above
add a cravat), with the addition of outwear: gloves, scarf,
and a HAT - again the ensemble is completed.
Practical Advice
Please, do develop a morning checklist and go over it each day
before you leave your home. We love you and want you to look beautiful
(or handsome as the case may be) but please remember that poor planning
on your part does not constitute an emergency on our part.
Of course if there is a rip or tear during the day we will be more than
happy to lend a hand - or needle- to put you back in one piece.
I strongly encourage both men and women to have duplicates for those
items worn closest to the skin (shirts/blouses, chemises,
drawers/bloomers) as well as an extra pair of socks. That way you can
make it through the weekend with out taking anything home.
Classes
The costume overview class is brand new this year - complete with
Power point!! Juliana Bradley has worked her magic thru the computer to
put together a well-rounded informative presentation. (Thank you
Juliana)
If you would like a copy of the presentation please bring a Cd with you
to workshops.
Alexandria will be teaching the bonnet workshop AND there will be
supplies available from the vendors that you can purchase to decorate
your hats beautifully.
We are adding 3 new costume classes this year, each will be offered
only once. They are more of a seminar class than hands on - but we
think you will find them very informative.
Thrift Store Dickens - Liz Martin
Turning bought items into approvable costumes
Lower class clothing - Alexandria Volk
How to stand out as one of the scum
Distressing - Vicky Nebecker & Alexandria Volk
How to make that new costume look really old!!!
Tentative Costume Approval Schedule
We, Liz Martin and Associates, will be available the first Saturday
of workshops immediately following the morning meeting (but possibly
with a slight delay for a potty break) for approvals and questions 1:15
and then from 2:45 until 4pm. On Sunday the schedule will be from
10:15 to 1:15 and then from 2:45 to 4. The second weekend schedule is
should be the same as on the first Sunday. Approval will also
take place during Dress Rehearsal Weekend at the CP. Times will
be decided and posted later for that weekend.
Makeup
Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies.
They aimed always to look pale which was achieved by staying inside and
out of the harsh sun. Rouge was rarely used and lipstick unheard of,
make-up in general was frowned upon in. Actresses or "those women down
at the docks" used make up such as powder and lipstick but a lady
would only admit to pinching her cheeks for a flush of natural glow.
Women in the upper classes would even paint small blue lines on
themselves to look even more translucent while wearing the low cut ball
gown.
That said…
Please use makeup. The Dickens fair is a glow with unnatural lighting
to emulate perpetual twilight. That makes many people look blank
or like they are eyebrow-less. I suggest using makeup a shade darker
than your natural color at your most healthy looking. If you are blonde
you may want to use an eyebrow pencil to darken your brows. If you are
stage, please use appropriate stage makeup. Consult with your Director
at dress rehearsal to find the best fit for you. If you are middle
class (most of London) please still attempt to look "natural " with
your makeup.
So You Still Need a Costume...
There will be various vendors selling costumes at workshops.
There is a good chance that you will be able to put together an entire
ensemble. If you have any question on whether or not your choice might
not pass costume approval - just bring it over to me!
If you are looking for a custom made
outfit in time for Dickens - email me directly and I will put you in
touch with someone.
Online Suppliers
I am working on compiling a list of acceptable websites where one can
purchase approved Dickens clothing. IF you have ordered from a
website, had a good experience AND passed costume approval - please
email me the website and any other info you feel is pertinent.
Here is what I have gathered so far.
Sac City Dry Goods - Joann Peterson
http://www.saccitydrygoods.com/
Tell her you are with DCF - if anything you are ordering is
questionable she will let you know.
Confederate Family Fashions
http://www.confederatefamilyfashions.com/
Excellent prices - great for 1st time Dickens women. Good for working
class or servants - make sure you order colors that are winter as
opposed to spring/summer.
Good price on Aprons and plain Garibaldi blouses.
Great turn around - I ordered from them last year and got my dress in
about 2 days.
Cumberland River Sutlery
http://shop.vendio.com/victorianattire/category/100078/
I have not ordered from this site - they look good and the prices are
reasonable and they have a good selection of sizes. Go with the day
dresses not ball gowns.
Gentleman's Emporium
Men's stuff is good but most of the women's is too late for our period.
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/coats.php?from=leftnav
Frocks, sack coats and Victorian formal tail coat
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/vests.php?from=leftnav
Any of the flat or straight fronted vests
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/shirts.php?from=leftnav
shirts are good - Stay with the ones that have the same color of collar
as the rest of the shirt - not the contrasting white collar- if you are
playing a working class man - the striped shirts are wonderful
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000167.php
trousers
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/suspenders.php?from=leftnav
Any of the y-back suspenders - if you have the choice - go with canvas
rather than elastic.
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000622.php
Silk puff tie - for those of you not quite comfortable tying your own
cravat
Shoes
Fugawee
http://www.fugawee.com/
Fabric and Pattern Selection
Remember, the years that the Dickens Fair covers are 1842 - 1863, so
jewel colors and deep, rich tones are good, and no fluorescent,
overwhelming pastels, modern colors & patterns, Plaids and stripes
are great, but do not to use lightweight fabrics like madras or
seersucker. If you have any questions after reading the info on the
Dickens website, please feel free to contact us at
costumes@redbarnproductions.com. or
dickenscostumes@gmail.com
Feel free to send scanned swatches of fabric, sketches, or snaps of
out-of-print patterns for approval or advice. If you have construction
questions, those are welcome as well.
Patterns
I have looked at all of the following patterns and given my okay on
them. I have, however, NOT made all of them! Juliana
Bradley can vouch for quite a few as well as can Alexandria.
Which is the best? As far as the "Big 3" are concerned, I tend to
prefer Simplicity to either Butterick or McCall's.
Past Patterns, Laughing Moon, and Truly Victorian are wonderful pattern
companies. Yes they are more expensive, but they are worth every penny!
Here are the currently available patterns that pass muster… Simplicity
took away a LOT this year - grrr
Simplicity
Ladies
2887
Green dress
2960
Lavender dress
3727
Blue plaid jacket & skirt
3791
White with black piping
4900
Winter white jacket &
skirt
5726
Chemise, corset &
petticoat
7215
Chemise and corset
9761
Grey striped jacket &
3-tiered skirt
9764
Hoops
9769
Corset, chemise & Drawers
Men's
2895
Men's Frock Coat, Shirt and
Vest
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on ebay)
4737
Girls dress and drawers
5442
Women's summer day dress
7212
Pink plaid dress
3855
Red plaid jacket & shirt
4400
Red plaid civil war day dress
4510
Burgundy day dress with
flounced hem
4551
Yellow day dress
5023
Men's Shirt and Trouser
5033
Mid 19th Century Underwear
5035
19th Century Shirt and
Trousers
5037
Mid 19th Century Vest,
Braces (Suspenders), and Cap
McCall's
Ladies
5129
Bonnet
3609
Camisole, pantaloons,
corset, & hoops
5131
girls dress & drawers
Men's
4745 (men's uniform pattern... not bad....)
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on ebay)
4890 -men's vest - straight bottomed only
5132
Jackets & 2-tiered skirt
4698
Cape
Butterick
Ladies
4210 Hats - view A & B
5265
Short cape, bonnet, and muff - the
skirt is not full enough for our time range.
5266
Red coat with black skirt
Men's
3648 Double breasted jacket and pants
3721 Vest and cutaway jacket
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on ebay)
4540
Striped dress with front
3993 Man's caped coat ala Sherlock Holmes
4825
Working man's shirt
Past Patterns:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/1850.html
Women's
700
1850-1862 Fashionable
Skirt
701
1850-1867 Gathered and
Fitted Bodices
702
1850s-1863 Dart Fitted
Bodices
706
1850s-1860s Drawers.
707
Two Chemises 1850-1870
708
1840's - 1880's Corset
709
1850s-Late 1860s
Garibaldi Shirt
800
1840- 1850 Flounced
or Single Skirt
801
1840- 1850 Fan Front Bodice.
803
1840s to Early 1850s
Round Dress
Men's
006
1800-1890s Men's Drawers
007
Two Mid-Nineteenth Century
Shirts
710
Trousers 1851-1867
(different sizes)
713
Trousers 1851-1867
(different sizes)
Folkwear
http://www.folkwear.com/romantic.html
PF0222 Vintage Vests
Truly Victorian
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
TV141 Cage Crinoline
TV240 1860's Ball Gown Skirt
TV243 1843 Tablier Skirt
TV244 1859 Double skirt
TV246 1851 Petal Ballgown skirt
TV440 1859 Pagoda Bodice
TV441 1861 Garibaldi Blouse
TV443 1860-61 dress bodices
TV456 1856 Gathered dress
Laughing Moon
http://www.lafnmoon.com/
Women's
#100
Ladies' Victorian Underwear
- 2 Corsets, chemise, and drawers
"
Supplement
tissue pattern available for the View A Dore corset that takes the
sizes from size 26 to 40
#111
Ladies Early 1860's Day Dress
#114
Ladies' Round Dresses -
1840's-1852
Men's
#106 California Pants
#107 Men's Victorian & Edwardian Shirt (1845-1920)
#109 Men's Frock Coats & Two Vests (1850 - 1915)
REVISED: Now Includes Single Breasted version
If you have personally built a costume from any of these patterns we
would love to hear about it! Please send us your review, including your
name & experience level. Please rate it, on a scale of 1 - 5,
5 being the most difficult. Feel free to include a picture or two if
you have them. The reviews will be posted to tribe in What
to wear to Dickens Fair
http://faireapprovablecostume.tribe.net/
Summary
This missive is not meant to be the end all in costuming
information. It's just the costume department's way of touching base
with all of you and letting you know what our expectations will be come
Saturday.
I look forward to working with each and every one of you.
See you in London!
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