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Dickens Christmas Fair 2007 October Missive #7 - Costumes
(sent October 31st, 2007)

Happy Halloween!

It's a good day for a costume missive, so here's some great information from Liz Martin. As always, if you have questions, please respond to those mentioned below rather than replying to me. Thanks, Cat

In This Missive
Introduction
Tentative Costume Approval Schedule
Costume Guidelines
Fabric and Pattern Selection
Make-Up
Morning Checklist
Emergencies
So you still need a costume . . .
Recommended Costumers
Online Costume Stores
Approved Patterns
Rate The Patterns
Online Questions & Discussions
Summary
 

Introduction
Hello everyone. My name is Liz Martin and I will be the costume director for the 2007 Dickens Fair. Assisting me will be Alexandria Volk and Juliana Bradley, plus several “surprise” guest costumers! I am thrilled to be working with all of you in this capacity. Please  have patience with me as this is my first year and I am still figuring  out what all goes into this position!
 
I have heard through the grapevine that the position of costume director for Dickens is difficult and challenging, as well as one to be feared by those that are non-costumers.  I am hoping that  all of you will assist me in making this as unstressed and drama-free  as possible.  How can you do this? By following the costume guidelines!

There is no reason to be afraid of us – unless you are NOT  following  the costume guidelines. Even then, I would prefer that you not find us frightening, but merely firm in carrying out our duty and commitment to the overall look of the show.
 
Dickens Fair is a unique theatrical animal. We are a collection of  volunteer performers who are attempting to recreate and populate the  London that Mr. Charles Dickens created in his works. If this is your first year, you will find it to truly be an ensemble cast effort. And yes, what you wear really matters. The costumes are the biggest part of the scenery – what you are wearing is what will set the time period in the eye of our customers.
 
My job, as I see it, is to keep the continuity of the production flowing and to make sure that there is an even and homogenized look to the fair.
 
So how does this translate to you, the performer?
1)    There is a dress code and a time line.
2)    We are going for the rule – NOT the exception
3)    We want you to be comfortable in your costume
4)    Yes, you have to conform!
5)    Have fun!
6)    There is NO CROSS DRESSING
(the one exception is Jeremy, who has worked for many years to perfect his costume, character and make-up. Some departments may have one or two women dressed in pants for safety reasons)

Costume Approval: All participants in the fair (cast members, employees, volunteers, door mice, helper cats) must receive costume approval before receiving their pass.  To reiterate: registration forms must be stamped with costume approval in order to receive a gate pass.
 

Tentative Costume Approval Schedule
We, Liz Martin and her associates, will be available the first Saturday of workshops immediately following the morning meeting (but possibly with a slight delay for a bathroom break) for approvals and questions, until 1:15 and then from 2:45 until 5:00pm. 
 
On Sunday the schedule will be from 10:15 to 1:15 and then from 2:45 to 5:00pm.

The second weekend schedule is still uncertain so for now is TBA. 
 
Approval will also take place during Dress Rehearsal Weekend at the Cow Palace.  Times will be decided and posted later for that weekend.


Costume Guidelines
Everyone at the fair must wear clothing that would lead the casual observer to believe that you just stepped out of London from the period between the years 1844 and1860.
 
How we achieve this is by keeping to a certain silhouette for both the women and the men.
 
NOTE: These are very generalized. This is intended to give you a quick OVERVIEW of what we are looking for. There are of course class differences and character traits that will cause there to be differing clothing items. For a more in-depth version of this – please feel free to come to the costume classes at workshops or visit the website at
www.dickensfair.com/costumeguide.htm
If you have any questions after reading the info on the Dickens website,
please feel free to contact us at
costumes@redbarnproductions.org  or dickenscostumes@gmail.com
 
 
Women:
Colors – jewel tones, NO BLACK (unless Mr. Dickens wrote you in black).  Plaids are wonderful, again in the darker jewel tones, & patterned cotton fabrics are also acceptable, (please let me see the swatch BEFORE you start sewing!)  Hoops or petticoats, long sleeves, a relatively high neckline, some sort of outerwear, gloves and a bonnet or hat will complete your basic Dickens outfit quite nicely. NO BUSTLES, please, they are not appropriate to our time period.
 
Men:
Pants- high-waisted is preferred, wool, either plaid, striped or plain
Vest/waistcoat - can be collared or not but should not have points in the front and does not, generally, match either the pants or the jacket, 
Jacket – does not always have to match the pants, in the case of a sack suit all three pieces would match.
Shirt – for laborers can be striped or colored, clerks and upper class (A Gentleman) would wear white, add a cravat.
With the addition of outwear:  gloves, scarf, and a HAT – again the ensemble is completed.
 

Fabric and Pattern Selection
Remember, the years that the Dickens Fair covers are 1844 - 1860, so jewel colors and deep, rich tones are good, and no fluorescent, overwhelming pastels, or teal colors. Plaids and stripes are great, but do not to use lightweight fabrics like madras or seersucker. Feel free to send scanned swatches of fabric, sketches, or snaps of out-of-print patterns for approval or advice. If you have construction questions, those are welcome as well.

There is a list of acceptable patterns and some notes on them later in this email


Make-Up
Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies. They aimed always to look pale which was achieved by staying inside and out of the harsh sun. Rouge was rarely used and lipstick unheard of, make-up in general was frowned upon. Actresses or “those women  down at the docks”  used make up such as powder and lipstick but a lady would only admit to pinching her cheeks for a flush of natural glow. Women in the upper classes would even paint small blue lines on themselves to look even more translucent while wearing the low cut ball gown.
 
That said…
 
Please use makeup. The Dickens fair is aglow with unnatural lighting to emulate perpetual twilight.  That makes many people look blank or like they are eyebrow-less. I suggest using makeup a shade darker than your natural color at your most healthy looking. If you are blonde you may want to use an eyebrow pencil to darken your brows. If you are stage, please use appropriate stage makeup. Consult with your director at dress rehearsal to find the best fit for you. If you are middle class (most of London) please still attempt to look “natural ” with your makeup.
 

Morning Checklist
Please, do develop a morning checklist and go over it each day before you leave your home. We love you and want you to look beautiful (or handsome as the case may be) but please remember that poor planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on our part.
 

Emergencies
Of course if there is a rip or tear during the day we will be more than happy to lend a hand – or needle- to put you back in one piece. I strongly encourage both men and women to have duplicates for those items worn closest to the skin (shirts/blouses, chemises, drawers/bloomers) as well as an extra pair of socks. That way you can make it through the weekend without taking anything home.

 
So you still need a costume . . .
There will be various vendors selling costumes at workshops.  There is a good chance that you will be able to put together an entire ensemble. If you have any question on whether or not your choice might not pass costume approval – just bring it over to me!
 
I know that Lynn Combs will have men’s clothing – you can generally purchase an entire man’s outfit for around $200. (This is just an estimate - prices may have gone up from last year)!

 
Recommended Costumers
These talented costumers have been tested and are costumers who have continually built passable or more than passable costumes for our fair. Please be aware that all costumers set their own rate and any business you conduct together is not affiliated with the fair. ~ Liz
 
Alexandria Volk
  BlackSwanX@gmail.com
I do individual consultations and patterning and construction help on a case-by-case basis, sliding scale charged. I also make custom costumes and do custom refitting and repairs –though these services cost more.
 
Cherie Moore
cherie@wintermooncostumes.net
A multiple award-winning costumer is now accepting a very limited amount of commissions for this year's Dickens Fair. Novato area
 
Rachel Tibbetts
rtibbett@yahoo.com
Based in the East Bay, but some travel may be possible.
 
Carol Wood
kerolkid@gmail.com
Experienced costumer, ladies and men’s, millinery as well
 
Hannah Phillips-Ryan
hjvelvet@hotmail.com
 
 
If you would like to be  considered for the recommended costumer list, please e-mail the costume shop at:  costumes@redbarnproductions.org  or  dickenscostumes@gmail.com
Contact us for specifications.
 

Online Costume Stores
I am working on compiling a list of acceptable websites where one can purchase approved Dickens clothing.  IF you have ordered from a website, had a good experience AND passed costume approval – please email me the website and any other info you feel is pertinent.
 
 
Approved Patterns
I have looked at all of the following patterns and given my okay on them.  I have, however, NOT made all of them!  Juliana Bradley can vouch for quite a few as well as can Alexandria.
 
Which is the best? As far as the “Big 3” are concerned, I tend to prefer Simplicity to  either Butterick or McCall’s.
 
Past Patterns, Laughing Moon, and Truly Victorian are wonderful pattern companies. Yes they are more expensive, but they are worth every penny!
 
Here are the currently available patterns that pass muster…
 
Simplicity
Ladies
3727    Blue plaid jacket & skirt
3791    White with black piping
3855    Red plaid jacket & shirt
4400    Red plaid civil war day dress
4510    Burgundy day dress with flounced hem
4551    Yellow day dress
4900    Winter white jacket & skirt
5726    Chemise, corset & petticoat
7212    Pink plaid dress
7215    Chemise and corset
9761    Grey striped jacket & 3-tiered skirt
9764    Hoops
9769    Corset, chemise & Drawers
 
Men’s
5023     Men's Shirt and Trouser
5033     Mid 19th Century Underwear
5035    19th Century Shirt and Trousers
5037     Mid 19th Century Vest, Braces (Suspenders), and Cap
 
Discontinued (patterns still available through the website or on eBay)
4737     Girls dress and drawers
5442      Women’s summer day dress
 
 
McCall’s
Ladies
5129    Bonnet
5132    Jackets & 2-tiered skirt
4698    Cape
3609    Camisole, pantaloons, corset, & hoops
5131    Girls dress & drawers
 
Men’s
3721 (coat needs to be 6"-8" shorter)
4745 (men's uniform pattern... not bad....)
 
Discontinued (patterns still available through the website or on eBay)
4890 Men’s vest - straight bottomed only
 
Butterick
Ladies
3992    Easy dress
4210    Hats – view A & B
4254    19th century corsets
4761    Blouse, skirt & apron Note on apron: over the shoulder straps were not worn at this time – instead, pin the bib to your blouse
 
Men’s
3648      Double breasted jacket and pants
3721      Vest and cutaway jacket
4825       Working man's shirt
 
Discontinued (patterns still available through the website or on eBay)
4540     Striped dress with front
3993      Man’s caped coat ala Sherlock Holmes
 
Past Patterns
http://www.pastpatterns.com/1850.html
 
Women’s
700    1850-1862 Fashionable Skirt
701     1850-1867 Gathered and Fitted Bodices
702     1850s-1863 Dart Fitted Bodices
706     1850s-1860s Drawers.
707     Two Chemises  1850-1870
708     1840's - 1880's Corset
709     1850s-Late 1860s Garibaldi Shirt
800     1840- 1850  Flounced or Single Skirt
801     1840- 1850 Fan Front Bodice.
803    1840s to Early 1850s Round Dress
 
Men’s
006    1800-1890s Men's Drawers
007     Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts
710    Trowsers 1851-1867 (different sizes)
713     Trowsers 1851-1867 (different sizes)
 
 
Folkwear
http://www.folkwear.com/romantic.html
PF0222 Vintage Vests
 

Truly Victorian
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
 
TV141      Cage Crinoline
TV240      1860's Ball Gown  Skirt
TV243      1843 Tablier Skirt
TV244      1859 Double skirt
TV246      1851 Petal Ballgown skirt
TV440      1859 Pagoda Bodice
TV441     1861 Garibaldi Blouse
TV443     1860-61 dress bodices
TV456      1856 Gathered dress
 
Laughing Moon
http://www.lafnmoon.com/

Women’s
#100      Ladies’ Victorian Underwear - 2 Corsets, chemise, and drawers
        Supplement tissue pattern available for the View A Dore corset  that takes the sizes from size 26 to 40
#111      Ladies Early 1860's Day Dress
#114      Ladies' Round Dresses ­ 1840’s-1852

Men’s
#106     California Pants
#107     Men’s Victorian & Edwardian Shirt (1845-1920)
#109     Men’s Frock Coats & Two Vests (1850 - 1915)
                 REVISED: Now Includes Single Breasted version
 
 
Rate The Patterns
If you have personally built a costume from any of these patterns we would love to hear about it! Please send us your review, including your name & experience level.  Please rate it, on a scale of 1 – 5, 5 being the most difficult. Feel free to include a picture or two if you have them.  The reviews will be posted to tribe in 
"What to wear to Dickens Fair"
http://faireapprovablecostume.tribe.net/
 

Online Questions & Discussions
Speaking of Tribe, there are several areas on Tribe.net that are dedicated to Dickens Fair.  “What to Wear to the Dickens Fair” is one of them. I do my best to visit all of the related sites on a regular basis to monitor questions regarding what is approvable.  If you have any questions – please contact myself, or Alexandria at dickenscostumes@gmail.com
I can also be contacted through Tribe with costuming questions – however there may be a slight delay if you send the questions that way as opposed to personal email.
 

Summary
This missive is not meant to be the end all in costuming information, it’s just the costume department’s way of touching base with all of you and letting you know what our expectations will be come Saturday.

I look forward to working with each and every one of you.

See you in London!

Liz Martin
costumes@redbarnproductions.org  or dickenscostumes@gmail.com


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