The
Great Dickens Christmas Fair Missive
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Dickens
Christmas Fair 2009 Costume Missive
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Notes from your Missive Maven:
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It's
the Great Costume Missive! Lots of very helpful tips and resources.
Workshop and approval times will be included in the forthcoming
workshop missive.
Please remember to contact Liz at costumes@redbarnproductions.org
with any costuming questions, rather than hitting "reply". Thanks.
Past missives can be viewed at http://www.cattaylor.com/missives.html
Cat Taylor
Entertainment Director and Missive Maven
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Special Note: New Logos on Missive Site!
The new DCF logos are on the missive site, please save, size and post
wherever you post Dickens Fair news and announcements.
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| In
This Missive |
| Welcome Back to London! |
| Costume Approval |
| What We Look For |
| Costume Guidelines |
| Make-Up |
| So You still need a costume... |
| Online Suppliers |
| Fabric and Pattern Selection |
| Costume Items for Sale at
Workshops |
| Summary |
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Welcome Back to London!
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(from Liz Martin)
I was feeling that I was late with this years' costume missive
however, on checking the date from last year - I am actually early!!
Last year you all looked MARVELOUS!! Ready to do it again?? I
can't wait to see what will be worn in London this season.
For those of you who don't know me, I am Liz Martin, your costume
director. It's my privilege to facilitate the fashions of London.
To do that the costume department asks that
our participants wear clothing that would lead the casual observer to
believe
that they have just stepped back in time to a Christmas Eve in London
somewhere
between the years 1842-1863.
Alexandria Volk will be returning as the Costume Shop manager. We
will have several other helpers and interns who look forward to meeting
all of
you throughout the run of Dickens fair.
Dickens Fair is a unique theatrical animal. We are a collection of
volunteer performers who are attempting to recreate and populate the
London
that Mr. Charles Dickens created in his works. If this is your first
year, you
will find it to truly be an ensemble cast effort. And yes, what you
wear really
matters. The costumes are the biggest part of the scenery - your
clothing is
what will set the time period and the feel of the show to our customers.
Please make sure that you are always fully dressed in costume
whenever you are in the public view.
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Costume
Approval
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All participants in the fair (cast members, employees, volunteers,
door mice, helper cats) must receive costume approval prior to opening
(or
before receiving their pass): registration forms must be stamped with
costume
approval in order to receive a gate pass.
If you are a new
member of our cast this year please do not come
through costume approval before you have taken the costuming overview
class.
Should you have multiple costumes please be prepared to show us
all of them - on your body!
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What We
Look For
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Silhouette
and color
For women:
For woman: do you
have the bell shape look to your skirts? Do your skirts flow freely
over your
hoop or crinoline? Is the color and type of fabric correct? Are your
shoes
right? (Please keep the heels to no more than 2". The Cow Palace is a
cement
floor and you will have sore body parts by the end of the day.)
Remember we are
a daytime show. This means that ball gowns are not acceptable.
For men: are
your
pants high enough? ie. where does the waistband sit? Are you wearing
suspenders? Are the belt loops removed from your pants? Does the
waistcoat/vest
overlap the top of your pants? Is your shirt collar correct? Do you
have a
cravat? What kind of shoes are you wearing? Do you have on dark socks?
Yes,
parts is parts
Do you have all of your costume pieces: outer wear as well? Hat,
bonnet, shawl both men and women, neck scarf (different than a cravat),
gloves?
What jewelry will you be wearing? Does your character wear an apron or
day cap
when indoors? By all means, bring that!
Fit
Part of the approval process is to not only see that the colors
and styles that you have chosen are correct but also look at the
overall fit of
your costume. Therefore do not be surprised if you go away with
suggestions and
a few safety pins in your outfit!
Pizzazz!
Add
some Victorian bling - and I don't necessarily mean glitz. The
Victorian women
loved to add décor to their clothing: ribbons, fabric roses,
trim - and this
can be done at any class level. Just
remember what your characters financial means might have been and go
from there.
And no, having a "wealthy patron" will not automatically get you the
ability to
wear a lot of expensive floof on your dress!
For the men - add a watch chain and hang a fob from it. A sprig of
holly in your hatband allows even the most serious of our London
denizens to
acknowledge the season. Let your
waistcoats be colorful - it is Christmas you know!
My goal for this year is to make approvals as stress-free as
possible and to work with all of you to create the most beautifully
populated
London our customers have ever seen.
So how does this translate to you, the performer?
1)
There is a dress code and a time line.
2)
We are going for the rule - NOT the exception
3)
We want you to look good and be comfortable in your costume
4)
Yes, you want to make the costume department's life as stress-free
as possible!
5)
Have fun!
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Costume Guidelines
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NOTE: These are very generalized. This is intended to give you a
quick OVERVIEW of what we are looking for. There are, of course, class
differences and character traits that will cause there to be differing
clothing
items. For a more in-depth version of this - please feel free to come
to the
costume classes at workshops or visit the website at
http://dickensfair.com/costumeguide.htm
Women:
Corsets:
highly suggested - mid 19th century styles, over the bust
Hoops or Crinolines:
the circumference of your hoop should be no more
that 95" - 110". With the streets of London being so populated these
days hoops
that are any larger are becoming dangerous!
Dress: Fabric
in both the bodice and skirt match, long sleeves or
mid-arm length with white undersleeves, no zippers
Skirt , jacket and
blouse: Full bell shaped skirt, the Zouave jacket was
popular at the time (black, red, blue green) and was worn with a white
collarless or peter pan collar, front buttoning blouse.
Colors -
jewel tones, NO BLACK (unless Mr. Dickens wrote you in black). Plaids
are wonderful, again in the darker jewel tones, & patterned cotton
fabrics
are also acceptable - (Please let me see the swatch BEFORE you start
sewing!)
Adding a petticoat over your hoops will keep you from committing that
dreaded
fashion faux pas of hoop lines showing!
NO BUSTLES.
Indoor headwear:
This past season saw an explosion in the dainty and
attractive head coverings known as days caps. Made of lace and adorned
with all
sorts of ribbons and bows they are the ideal item to cover your hair
while
indoors. An extra bonus is that they fit nicely under your bonnet - no
need to
remove them when you sally forth on the streets of London.
Outerwear: A
cape or shawl works nicely to show that you are outside,
and along with gloves and a bonnet or hat you will be right in the
height of
London fashion. Please - no top hats on women - of ANY size.
What is the deal
with bonnets anyway? Bonnets are one of the quickest
ways to convey that we are in fact portraying another time and place to
the
patrons. They are the preferred headwear of London this season.
Men:
Pants:
high-waisted is preferred, wool, either plaid or plain,
suspenders - no belt. In fact - removal of your belt loops will make us
very
happy!
Vest/waistcoat:
collared or not, no points in the front (straight
across), single or double breasted, does not generally match either the
pants
or the jacket - plaids, brocades & stripes are wonderful. There
should be
no shirt showing between the bottom of the vest and your pants!
Jacket: does
not always have to match the pants, in the case of a sack
suit all 3 pieces would match,
Shirt: for
laborers it can be striped or
colored, clerks and those in the upper class (or wishing to appear that
way)
would wear white, either collarless or with a high standing collar,
(for middle
class and above add a cravat).
Outer wear:
Capes, overcoats and shawls are perfect for men - add:
gloves, scarf, and a hat.
Hat: Men
usually wore some
kind of head covering when out-of-doors. The top hat was the style
favored by
gentlemen; the derby hat or cloth cap was favored by the lower classes.
Advice:
Please, do develop a morning checklist and go over it each day
before you leave your home. We love you and want you to look beautiful
(or
handsome as the case may be) but please remember that poor planning on
your
part does not constitute an emergency on our part.
Of course if there is a rip or tear during the day we will be more
than happy to lend a hand - or needle- to put you back in one piece.
I strongly encourage both men and women to have duplicates for
those items worn closest to the skin (shirts/blouses, chemises,
drawers/bloomers) as well as an extra pair of socks. That way you can
make it
through the weekend with out taking anything home to wash.
Women, always
remember this simple rule - Shoes
first then corset!
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Make-Up
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Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile
ladies. They aimed always to look pale which was achieved by staying
inside and
out of the harsh sun. Rouge was rarely used and lipstick unheard of,
make-up in
general was frowned upon in. Actresses or "those women down at
Sal's" used make up such as powder and lipstick but
a lady would only admit to pinching her cheeks for a flush of natural
glow.
That said...
Both men and women - Please use makeup. Naturally. The Dickens
Fair is aglow with unnatural lighting to emulate perpetual
twilight. This makes many people look sallow or can
wash out your features. Foundation, a little mascara, a touch of
natural color
on the cheeks and lips and a light application of eyebrow pencil will
go a long
way in making you look better in the streets. The mineral make-up that
goes on
like a powder is wonderful and very natural looking. Do remember, with
any
foundation, to touch up your make-up mid way thru the day. If you are
on stage,
please use appropriate stage makeup. Consult with your Director at
dress
rehearsal to find the best look for you.
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So
you
still need a costume . . .
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There will be various vendors selling costumes
at workshops (see item
at the bottom of this missive). There is a good chance that you
will
be able
to put together an entire ensemble. If you have any question on whether
or not
your choice might not pass costume approval - just bring it over to me!
If you are looking
for a custom made outfit in time for Dickens - email me directly and I
will put
you in touch with someone.
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Online
Suppliers
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I am working on compiling a list of acceptable websites where one
can purchase approved Dickens clothing.
IF you have ordered from a website, had a good experience AND passed
costume approval - please email me the website and any other info you
feel is
pertinent.
Here is what I have gathered so far.
Sac City
Dry Goods - Joann Peterson
http://www.saccitydrygoods.com
Tell her you are with DCF - if anything you are ordering is
questionable she will let you know. She also carries shoes.
Confederate
Family Fashions
http://www.confederatefamilyfashions.com
Excellent prices - great for 1st time Dickens women.
Good for working class or servants - make sure you order colors that
are winter
as opposed to spring/summer.
Good price on Aprons and plain Garibaldi blouses.
Great turn around - I ordered from them last year and got my dress
in about 2 days.
Cumberland
River Sutlery
http://shop.vendio.com/victorianattire/category/100078/
I have not ordered from this site - they look good and the prices
are reasonable and they have a good selection of sizes. Go with the day
dresses
not ball gowns.
Gentleman's
Emporium
Men's stuff is good but most of the women's is too late for our
period.
However - Lynn Combs
sell pretty much the same stuff - she'll be
at workshops!
Frocks, sack coats and Victorian formal tail coat
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/coats.php?from=leftnav
Vests
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/vests.php?from=leftnav
Any of the flat or straight fronted vests
Shirts
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/shirts.php?from=leftnav
Their shirts are good - Stay with the ones that have the same color of
collar
as the rest of the shirt - not the contrasting white collar- if you are
playing
a working class man - the striped shirts are wonderful
Trousers
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000167.php
Suspenders
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/suspenders.php?from=leftnav
Any of the y-back suspenders - if you have the choice - go with
canvas rather than elastic.
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000622.php
Silk puff tie - for those of you not quite comfortable tying your
own cravat
Shoes
Fugawee
http://www.fugawee.com/
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Fabric
and Pattern Selection
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Remember,
the years that the Dickens Fair covers are 1842 - 1863, so jewel colors
and
deep, rich tones are good, and no fluorescent, overwhelming pastels,
modern
colors & patterns, Plaids and stripes are great, but do not to use
lightweight fabrics like madras or seersucker. Wools, gabardine,
velvet,
brocade are wonderful. If you have any questions after reading the info
on the
Dickens website, please feel free to contact us at
costumes@redbarnproductions.com
PLEASE send scanned swatches of fabric, sketches, or snaps of
out-of-print patterns for approval or advice. If you have construction
questions, those are welcome as well.
Another
Note:
I have looked at all of the following patterns and approved them.
You can also check out the Great pattern Review at the Greater Bay
Area Costumers Guild
http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/index.html
Past
Patterns, Laughing Moon, and Truly Victorian are wonderful
pattern companies. Yes they are more expensive, but they are worth
every penny!
Here are the currently available patterns that pass muster... So
many of the good ones are now gone!
Simplicity
Ladies
2887 Green dress
3727 Blue
plaid jacket & skirt
9769 Corset,
chemise & Drawers
Men's
2895 Men's Frock Coat,
Shirt and Vest
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on
ebay)
4900 Winter
white jacket & skirt
5726 Chemise,
corset & petticoat
7215 Chemise
and corset
9761 Grey
striped jacket & 3-tiered skirt
9764 Hoops
3791 White
with black piping
4737 Girls dress and
drawers
5442 Women's summer day
dress
2960 Lavender dress
7212 Pink
plaid dress
3855 Red
plaid jacket & shirt
4400 Red
plaid civil war day dress
4510 Burgundy
day dress with flounced hem
4551 Yellow
day dress
5023 Men's Shirt and
Trouser
5033 Mid 19th Century Underwear
5035 19th Century Shirt and Trousers
5037 Mid 19th Century
Vest, Braces (Suspenders), and Cap
McCall's
Ladies
5129 Bonnet
Men's
4745 (men's uniform pattern... not bad....)
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on
ebay)
4890 Men's vest - straight bottomed
only
5132 Jackets
& 2-tiered skirt
4698 Cape
3609 Camisole,
pantaloons, corset, & hoops
5131 Girls
dress & drawers
Butterick
Ladies
4210 Hats - view A & B
5265 Short
cape, bonnet, and muff - the skirt is not full enough for our time
range.
5266 Red
coat with black skirt
Men's
3648 Double breasted jacket and
pants
Discontinued (patterns still available thru the website or on
ebay)
4540 Striped
dress with front
3993 Man's caped coat ala Sherlock
Holmes
4825 Working
man's shirt
3721 Vest and cutaway jacket
Past
Patterns:
http://www.pastpatterns.com/1850.html
Women's
700 1850-1862
Fashionable Skirt
701 1850-1867
Gathered and Fitted Bodices
702 1850s-1863 Dart
Fitted Bodices
706 1850s-1860s
Drawers.
707 Two Chemises
1850-1870
708 1840's - 1880's
Corset
709 1850s-Late 1860s
Garibaldi Shirt
800 1840- 1850 Flounced or Single
Skirt
801 1840- 1850 Fan
Front Bodice.
803 1840s to Early
1850s Round Dress
Men's
006 1800-1890s Men's
Drawers
007 Two
Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts
710 Trousers
1851-1867 (different sizes)
713 Trousers
1851-1867 (different sizes)
Folkwear
http://www.folkwear.com/romantic.html
PF0222 Vintage Vests
Truly
Victorian
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/
TV141 Cage Crinoline
TV240 1860's Ball Gown
Skirt
TV243 1843 Tablier Skirt
TV244 1859 Double skirt
TV246 1851 Petal Ballgown
skirt
TV440 1859 Pagoda Bodice
TV441 1861 Garibaldi
Blouse
TV443 1860-61 dress
bodices
TV456 1856 Gathered dress
Laughing
Moon
http://www.lafnmoon.com/
Women's
#100 Ladies' Victorian
Underwear - 2 Corsets, chemise, and drawers
#111 Ladies Early 1860's
Day Dress
#114 Ladies' Round
Dresses - 1840's-1852
Men's
#106 California Pants
#107 Men's Victorian
& Edwardian Shirt (1845-1920)
#109 Men's Frock Coats
& Two Vests (1850 - 1915)
REVISED: Now Includes Single Breasted version
If you have personally built a costume from any of these patterns
we would love to hear about it! Please send us your review, including
your name
& experience level. Please rate it,
on a scale of 1 - 5, 5 being the most difficult. Feel free to include a
picture
or two if you have them. The reviews
will be posted to tribe in What to wear to Dickens Fair
http://faireapprovablecostume.tribe.net/
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Costume
Items for Sale at Workshops
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Once again the Costume Rummage Sale returns to the Dickens
workshops! We invite you to clean your closets of all your
Dickens
appropriate fabric, excess clothing, patterns, trims and accessories -
just
imagine what you can buy with the money you make!
If you would like to sell your wares, please contact myself
- Liz Martin at costumes@redbarnproductions.org
for specifics and fees.
Some of the participating vendors will be:
Holzer & Combs Haberdasherie: Clothing & Accessories
for Ladies & Gents
Alan Jeffrey's Fine Gentlemen's' Attire (Jeffrey
Schoenberg)
Joann Peterson from Laughing Moon Patterns & Sac
City Dry Goods
Tara and her bloomers
Annie Lores' Hair & Hoops
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Summary
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This missive is not meant to be
the end all in costuming information. It's just the costume
department's way of
touching base with all of you and letting you know what our
expectations will
be come workshops.
I look forward to working with
each and every one of you.
See you in London!
Liz Martin
costumes@redbarnproductions.com
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| Contact Information
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For specific questions
regarding performing at the Fair or to submit a show proposal please
email Cat
Taylor
If your group would like to perform at the Fair for just one day
(school
caroling groups, etc., please email Robert
Young
For specific questions regarding vending at the Fair please email Vendors
For specific questions the beverage department please email Beverage
To learn what you can do to help save the Cow Palace, please visit
http://www.savethecowpalace.com
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