Dickens Christmas Fair 2010 -
The Great Costume Missive!

(from Liz Martin)

Hello!
Here it is, a bit earlier than last year and a bit later than I had originally planned,
The Annual Great Costume Missive!
Yes, it's long.  Yes, some of it is a repeat from last year.  Yes, it is worth reading all the way through! (There might even be a quiz at some point!)
 
As of today there are 38 days till the first day of costume approvals! Yikes!

Now that I have your attention - on to the fun stuff!

The costume guidelines have been updated so please take some time to visit the website and review them.
http://dickensfair.com/costumeguide

The Great Dickens Fair is a unique theatrical animal. We are a collection of volunteer performers who are attempting to recreate and populate the London that Mr. Charles Dickens created in his works. What you wear really matters. The costumes are the biggest part of the scenery ~ and the magic!  Your clothing is what will set the feel of the show to our customers. Please, please make sure that you are always fully dressed in costume whenever you are in the public view.

As the fair's costume director, it is my privilege to facilitate the fashions of London.  We ask that our participants/vendors wear clothing that would lead the casual observer to believe that they have just stepped back in time to Christmas Eve in London somewhere between the years 1842-1863. It is my job to help you create an ensemble that immediately conveys to the patrons your station/occupation/class/cast here in London.

My goals, as always, are to make approvals as stress-free as possible and to work with each of you to create the most beautifully populated London our customers have ever seen. 
 
So how does this translate to you, the performer?
1)      There is a dress code and a time line.
2)      We are going for the rule - NOT the exception
3)      We want you to look good and be comfortable in your costume
4)      We are all on the same team!
5)      Have fun!

In short, you, the participant, will come to the costume approval line at workshops, dressed in your entire costume.  You will be asked to who you are playing/group/director & what station they hold in London. Please do not give us your entire back-story. As much as we would love to hear it we have limited time in which to approve costumes and a lot of participants to see!

All participants in the fair (cast members, employees, vendors, volunteers, door mice, helper cats) must receive costume approval prior to opening (or before receiving their pass): registration forms must be stamped with costume approval in order to receive a gate pass.

If you are a new member of our cast this year please do not come through costume approval before you have taken the costuming overview class.

Should you have multiple costumes please be prepared to show us all of them - on your body!

The Long Version
Dickens Fair veterans: now would be the time to open up the totes and garment bags that house your Dickens costumes and make sure that they are in order. Are there any repairs that need to be made? Seams to be let out or taken in? I invite you to think back to last year's approvals:  Did I say to you "Looking towards next year: . . . "?
 
For those of you who are new to the family, please feel free to contact me to ask questions about your costume needs and desires. Be prepared to answer several questions: Who is your director? What character are you playing? What is their station or place in the London world?  (If you don't know yet - that's okay. We'll get you there!)
These are crucial in determining how your costume will reflect the character you are portraying.   
 
What do we look for?
 Do you have all of your costume pieces: outer wear as well? Hat, bonnet, shawl for both men and women, neck scarf (different than a cravat), gloves? What jewelry will you be wearing? Does your character wear an apron or day cap when indoors?  By all means, bring that!
 
For the men: Do your pants come up high enough - above the natural waistline?  Does your waistcoat overlap the waistband of your pants? Or is there (shudder) "gap-osis"?  I encourage all of our male participants to consider investing in a pair of pants and a waistcoat that are period correct. ? Are you wearing suspenders? Are the belt loops removed from your pants? What kind of shoes are you wearing? Do you have on dark socks?
 
For the women: Let's take a look at the silhouette.  The guidelines ask that your skirts be bell shaped. But do you see the same shape that I do? The look that we are going for is a full, pleated or gathered skirt that is attached to a waistband.  Think of an upside down  "U" rather than the straight lines of an "A".
Do your shoes look right? Is there enough room for insoles? Please keep the heels to no more than 2". The Cow Palace is a cement floor and you will have sore body parts by the end of the day.)
 
What to put on your head? 2 things: A day cap and then a bonnet. A day cap is a bit of fluff - usually lace and often ribbon trimmed that was worn under the bonnet and kept the top of the head covered when the bonnet is removed.  If you work in a shop you should be wearing a day cap or a mop cap.
Yes, the ladies of this time did wear hats. Why do we insist on bonnets then? It sets you, the participants, apart from the customers and it helps to further the illusion of being in another time period. Bonnets do not have to encase the head or give the feeling of blinders.
 
Some General Notes:

Fit
Part of the approval process is to not only see that the colors and styles that you have chosen are correct but also look at the overall fit of your costume. Therefore do not be surprised if you go away with suggestions and a few safety pins in your outfit!

Pizzazz!
Add some Victorian bling - and I don't mean glittery fabric.
The Victorian women loved to add décor to their clothing: ribbons, fabric roses, trim - and this can be done at any class level. Just remember what your characters financial means are and go from there. And no, having a "wealthy patron" will not automatically get you the ability to wear a lot of expensive floof on your dress!
For the men - add a watch chain and hang a fob from it. A sprig of holly in your hatband allows even the most serious of our London denizens to acknowledge the season.  Let your waistcoats be colorful - it is Christmas you know!
 
Checklist:
Please, do develop a morning checklist and go over it each day before you leave your home. I strongly encourage both men and women to have duplicates for those items worn closest to the skin (shirts/blouses, chemises, drawers/bloomers) as well as an extra pair of socks. That way you can make it through the weekend with out taking anything home to wash.
 
Make up
Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies. They aimed always to look pale which was achieved by staying inside and out of the harsh sun. Rouge was rarely used and lipstick unheard of, make-up in general was frowned upon in. Actresses or "those women down at Sal's" used make up such as powder and lipstick but a lady would only admit to pinching her cheeks for a flush of natural glow.
 
That said...
Both men and women - Please use makeup. Naturally. The Dickens Fair is aglow with unnatural lighting to emulate perpetual twilight.  This makes many people look sallow or can wash out your features. Foundation, a little mascara, a touch of natural color on the cheeks and lips and a light application of eyebrow pencil will go a long way in making you look better in the streets. The mineral make-up that goes on like a powder is wonderful and very natural looking. Do remember, with any foundation, to touch up your make-up mid way thru the day. If you are on stage, please use appropriate stage makeup. Consult with your Director at dress rehearsal to find the best look for you.

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